Gathered Plant Advice

Siberian iris 
Spring division is recommended:
Keep the new planting moist for six to eight weeks. Using a shovel, pitchfork, or even an axe, dig down around the entire root clump and rock the tool back and forth to loosen the rhizomes. When the clump is fully loosened, carefully lift it from the ground. Prune off the foliage to six to eight inches tall, then use a sharp knife to cut away divisions, each having at least two tufts of foliage. Discard the woody center portion. Plant each division in a new location, spacing them one to two feet apart, and covering them with with one to two inches of soil.
-Siberian iris prefers a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH (6.5 to 7.0). In alkaline soils, a yearly feeding with an acidifying fertilizer might produce more blooms.
-Applying a layer of mulch offers two benefits: keeping the soil moist and cool and preventing frost heaving in the winter.
-Siberian iris performs best if fertilized with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer in early spring, then again after flowering is complete.

Sedum
Propagate sedum in water, and then transfers the plants once they root to a container filled with potting soil. Ensure the plants are in the ground in the fall, so they have time to become established and survive the winter.
How to propagate sedum from stem cuttings in water: Choose a stem from a healthy sedum plant that’s about six inches (15 cm) long, and make your cut using a clean pair of scissors below a leaf node. Gently remove any other leaves that would be sitting in the water. Place your stem in a jar filled with room temperature water or rainwater, so that it covers the leaf node (but not any leaves). Place your jar in a bright area, like a windowsill or outside on a sheltered patio table. Be sure to change the water every few days to prevent it from going stagnant and your stem from rotting.

List of Requests

  • Wood chips, so many piles of wood chips
  • Fencing on all sides to be adjusted (requests for holes to be dug in advance detailed below)
  • Gate to be added to front entrance

Fencing Plans

Buy one or more new rolls

Front:

  • Gate and what’s right of gate remains where it is, however multiple fence posts need to be replaced and the fencing needs to be reset
  • What’s left of gate can remain for this year, but I’d love a bump out in front and an extension for greenhouse times.
  • Gate added to front entrance

Right side:

  • So many new posts need to be dug and added
  • Fencing should likely be reset entirely
  • Can we add another square post to make a future entry way to the shade garden?

Leftside

  • Some posts may need rejigging, and re-spacing should be a priority for both the front and back sections, however the back section should move a foot or two wider
  • Depending on how manure situation goes, the diagonal section could be shifted to encompass that drop zone.
  • An access gate could be added.

Backline

  • Check the stability of the posts come spring and see what needs adjusting or replacement
  • Add a post to the back right corner

Neat Extras

Fern propagation from spores